
Horseradish creme:
Small piece fresh horseradish root (see note)
1 8-ounce tub creme frache (see note)
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/4 teaspoon chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
Aggressively season tenderloin with salt and pepper so that all sides are coated. Drizzle olive oil over meat, then rub with chopped garlic. Let stand uncovered in refrigerator for 2 to 4 hours.
Prepare a hot fire in the grill (see note). Cook tenderloin for 20 to 25 minutes, turning a few times so as not to burn the meat. (If cooking on a gas grill, turn heat to high, but turn the heat down if meat appears to be burning.) Cook until the steak registers 130 degrees on an instant-read thermometer for medium-rare, or 125 degrees for rare, or 135 degrees for medium. Let the steak rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Slice meat and arrange on platter. Garnish with fresh herbs and serve with the horseradish creme.
Peel and finely grate horseradish root. In a small bowl, whisk together creme frache, lemon juice, horseradish (to taste), salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Let the creme rest for at least a half-hour (and up to 8 hours) so the flavors can develop.
Note: To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 2 seconds for hot. Recipe by chef Joshua Lane, El Gaucho, Portland