I adore the wines of the Piedmont region in Northern Italy. The “Killer B’s” of Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo. Fabulous red wines that paid perfectly with game, lamb, rabbit, mushrooms, Jerusalem artichokes and pastas.
But what about the first letter of the alphabet? Piedmont has one of those too! A white grape called Arneis. The English translation of Arneis is “little rascal”. The name is well earned as it can challenge the most experienced winemakers.
Arneis is grown in the Roero district in the southern part of Piedmont near the town of Alba.
The grape nearly became extinct, but in 1989, it was granted DOC status. Since then, the plantings have grown, although the wine is still a bit rare and hard to find. The grape, itself, has a history dating back to the 14th century. It was not used very much for its great flavor, but rather, it was used to surround the precious Nebbiolo grapes from pests such as yellow jackets (yech, I hate those pesky insects) and wild boar (hmm, tasty on a plate, but not good in the vineyard.)
Arneis is very fragrant. In fact, one night, several years ago, I took a bottle of Arneis to dinner at a local restaurant. Waiters from three tables away came over to ask what the wine was as they could smell it! The flavors are of peaches, pears a hint of almonds and even a hint of licorice in some. Arneis is usually dry.
In Oregon you can find Arneis on local retail shops and restaurant. The most widely known brands from Piedmont are Bruno Giacosa and Vietti.
A new comer to Portland is Tre Donne (translation, three women). Tres Donne is owned by the Lequio family, who have grown grapes, and made wine, on the property since 1850.
The winery is now run by three women, Rosanna, Daniela and Antonella. This is
very unusual in Italy, normally the operation is taken over by the sons. However,
their parents had three daughters and not one son. The three daughters approached
their father and said “Papa, we want to make the wine.” Their father wanted no
part of this! Tradition dictated that men made wine. He hoped that his daughters
would find husbands who were winemakers.
Well, again, the daughters asked their father to allow them to make the wine. After much discussion, he agreed to let them have one vintage. If they could produce great wines in that one vintage, they could continue as winemakers…if not, the family tradition would end.
The three daughters set out to make their mark on Italian wines. After their first vintage was released, and the awards poured in, their father agreed to let them continue the family tradition. Interesting to note that the daughters won more awards in their first vintage than their father had in his career.
Daniella, the youngest, makes the winery’s Arneis.
There are very few plantings in the United States and only one in Oregon. Ponzi Vineyards, in Beaverton, planted Arneis in 1991. Here in Oregon the wine is also made by a woman – second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi.
In California, Seghesio and Viansa both make Arneis. You will find Seghesio available in Oregon, the Viansa can be ordered from the winery.
It doesn't matter is the hot summer weather is going, or the chill of winter is at hand. I highly recommend that you try a bottle of Arneis. It is great no matter what the temperature outside!
Until next time,
Cheers!